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An ice axe is essential for safe climbing in the mountains and on icy slopes. The ice axe is an important piece of mountaineering equipment and can perform a variety of functions. It can be used as a cane for progression, as an anchor for crevasse rescue, to help braking a fall, or to carve steps. How to choose the right ice axe? Lepape guides you.

1. The pick head: composed of a blade and a purlin (or hammer).

2. The blade: located at the front of the pick head

3. The mallet or hammer: located at the back of the ice axe head, the mallet is mainly used for digging in the snow to make steps. The hammer is used to drive pitons into the rock.

4. The handle: its size varies according to the activity practised

5. The spade: the point at the end of the handle. Some ice axes do not have one

Choosing the right ice axe for your practice

The shape, weight, length and type of blades you use will depend on your needs.

Glacier hiking and ski touring

Lightweight, fairly long ice axes are preferred for this type of climbing, offering a very comfortable grip and good anchoring qualities.

Ice axe with straight or almost straight handle, rather long (60 to 70cm) in aluminium, as it is used as a walking stick most of the time. The pick size is determined as follows: arm straight, tip at ankle height.

A steel head that’s comfortable to hold and rounded blade teeth to prevent injuries

Classic mountaineering

The ice axe of choice is a versatile, high-performance model for use in a wide range of alpine terrain. It should be curved and of medium length (55 to 60cm), sturdy for use in snow, ice or on rock, and fitted with sharpened teeth.

Ice axe standards

The ice axe is manufactured to strict standards and is either technical (Type 2 / T-marked) or basic (Type 1 or B-marked).

Type 2 / mandatory marking T

These ice axes offer the highest resistance to the tests required by the standard. They are mainly used for technical mountaineering, ice climbing and dry tooling.

Type 1 / B marking (not compulsory)

These ice axes are less resistant to standards testing than type 2 ice axes. They are generally used for skiing, glacier walking and classic mountaineering.

Ice axe and choice of backpack

  1. It’s important to identify the attachment system on backpacks, which is located at the rear.
  2. The ice axe must be placed upside down and the pick at the top.
  3. Most of the time, you’ll need to slide the ice axe shaft into the strap on the side, or the blade into the strap at the bottom center of the bag. The ice axe blade should be located on the inside so that it does not protrude over the side.
  4. The handle is then attached at the top with a clip or elastic band.
  5. The ice axe must not be slid over the side of the backpack, as this could cause injury or damage the backpack.